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Catching the first wave of the day A feeling that makes me wanting more Beating friends to the next tunnel  and getting in the middle of a misty spitter
    The sun peaks perfectly through a gap in the mountain side, illuminating the rising and falling tide that leaves a puff of mist on the shore,
Fishy colors, trippy pattern, new skin, same goddess dubbed hippie My wetsuit warms me, colors me, and delights me while a bait ball swarms below me
The wall of the wave comes powering forward from a small distance My heart races with beat of my stroke as I paddle into a good position
Paddling so hard from the water wall behind. Too slow and i fall. Then I tumble and I roll to submerge to the unknown.
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