I used to fear big waves, perhaps I still do.

But this story is about adversity, so I'll share my time in the blue.

It was a day when I was young, and the waves were 12 feet tall.

The waves sounded like bombs and I knew the paddle out would be a brawl.

I could've stayed in but I chose to paddle out.

It was a really crazy bout.

I felt myself start to drown.

I could not decipher up from down.

When I finally came up, I feared for my life.

But I wanted to get into the line-up more than anything else.

So I paddled my hardest over the next wave. 

And when I got over, I came out the other side brave.