I used to fear big waves, perhaps I still do.
But this story is about adversity, so I'll share my time in the blue.
It was a day when I was young, and the waves were 12 feet tall.
The waves sounded like bombs and I knew the paddle out would be a brawl.
I could've stayed in but I chose to paddle out.
It was a really crazy bout.
I felt myself start to drown.
I could not decipher up from down.
When I finally came up, I feared for my life.
But I wanted to get into the line-up more than anything else.
So I paddled my hardest over the next wave.
And when I got over, I came out the other side brave.