My Place
The reason the ocean is my heart’s cure is because when I am on my own in the water I have time to think about all that is happening in my life. I can also be alone to think about decisions that I might have that could have a huge impact on my life. I have so much stress in my life and when I go out and just relax I get to take deep breaths and think about all that I am doing and how it is affecting my life. One day when I came in after catching some waves, my friend came up to me and asked, “How can you spend so much time out there?” My response to her was “When I am out there I forget about everything else. I lose track of time.” She then asked “Don't you get bored of sitting on your broad without catching waves and don’t you get cold?” I didn't have to think about the answer to that question one bit because I knew exactly why. My response was “When I sit on my board and do nothing I am actually taking in the scenery and thinking about everything in my life. The reason I don't get cold is because I am only thinking about my life and not about what is going on around my or the feelings that my body has, like being cold.” After that, she understood why I enjoy surfing with no one around and whenever I got the chance.