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My entire life, being in the ocean has been habitually done. You'll find me visiting there during the rise and fall of the sun. If this was a crime, I wouldn't run.
It is a place that does not discriminate any race. It will put a smile upon any face. This place I speak of has the power to heal whatever the case. All that is necessary to unlock such feelings of enjoyment is three
There's something about surfing at sunset. Maybe your hands feel like ice cubes. Maybe your ribs ache against the surfboard. Maybe your arms hang, limp as noodles.
Stranded on an island, off the coast of Thailand, the waves are at high tide, just me and my surf board so I'm gonna go ride, the water is warm and the sun is shining,
The sun peaks perfectly through a gap in the mountain side, illuminating the rising and falling tide that leaves a puff of mist on the shore,
In a too familiar whim of feeling drowned, I jump onto this raft that manifests
The wall of the wave comes powering forward from a small distance My heart races with beat of my stroke as I paddle into a good position
Powerful, Heavy, Fun You're sitting on your board You feel like a knight with his sword Then you see something on the horizon It comes in like a steaming train Your mind is telling you to refrain But something else changes your mind Pretending th
Surfers are different from normal people While normal people are tying down furniture And boarding up windows Surfers are tightening their fins And waxing their boards
Waves breaking on a quiet shore Darkening drier sand once more I stand searching the horizon Breathing in, feeling enlivened I hold adventure beneath my arm Yearning to run where the big waves are